Travelogue Central America 2025

Visiting
Guatemala

Belize

Mexico

FRI 31.10.25

We're flying with Air Europa from Zurich via Madrid and Panama City to Guatemala City.

In Madrid, the flight is delayed by about an hour. All passengers are on board, but it takes forever for the doors to close. Then the pushback truck won't detach from the plane. Another 30-minute delay.

Arriving in Panama City, we only have 20 minutes to catch our connecting flight. Luckily, the COPA aircraft isn't far from ours. Happily on board we can see through the window our luggage being loaded.
We land in Guatemala City just before midnight. Check-out is quick. Our taxi driver isn't here yet. We booked the airport transfer along with the hotel. The drive to Antigua takes a little over an hour.
Getting there at about 1 a.m., the streets are packed with people. It is Halloween. We're too tired to stay awake.

SAT 01.11.25

Our hotel, Maya Ik, is located right in the city center. We have the traditional Desayuno Chapín for breakfast, with a fried egg, black bean paste, cream cheese, plantains, tomato sauce, and tortillas. After breakfast, we head straight to the Arco de Santa Catalina, the city's main attraction. Antigua, with its cobblestone streets, colorful houses, churches, and plazas, is truly one of the most beautiful and authentic colonial cities in Latin America.
Today is All Saints' Day, so we visit the cemetery. Half of Antigua seems to be there. Ladder carriers offer their help so people can place flowers and decorations on the high graves. It's not just the dead who are being remembered; there's also a bicycle race taking place, finishing in the Plaza Mayor. There are lots of people, barriers, blaring music, and an even louder announcer.

We find some peace and quiet at the Mirador de la Cruz, with its view over the city to the majestic volcano Agua. Gardeners greet us warmly. We are pleasantly surprised by the friendliness of the locals.

In the evening, a spectacular procession takes place. Around 40-50 pallbearers carry an enormous frame laden with coffins, skeletons, and statues of saints from the Iglesia la Merced. Followed by brass and drum players, the procession winds its way through half the city. We end the day with a dinner of Guatemalan specialties.

SUN 02.11.25

We have booked two seats on the shuttle to Panajachel leaving shortly after noon. This gives us the whole morning for another sightseeing tour in Antigua.
The visibility is excellent today, allowing us to clearly observe the eruptions of volcano Fuego. The spectacle is most impressive from Tanque de la Unión. We had originally planned to climb volcano Acatenango, but decided against it due to time constraints. Because of the jet lag and recovery from a cold we didn't feel well enough to climb a nearly 4,000-meter-high peak.
We take Uber to the shuttle station.

The drive to Panajachel follows the winding Pan-American Highway. It seemes to lead on top of a mountain range with steep drops on both sides. Finally, we turn off and descend into the vast basin of Lake Atitlán. The lake has no effluent stream.

Arriving in Panajachel, we check into our room at the Hotel Villas Jabel Tinamit, which is situated away from the lake in the middle of a large garden. Before nightfall, we head to the lakeshore. The last ferries are arriving. The clouds are hanging low, so unfortunately, there's no spectacular sunset.
We end the day with steak and wine at the Guajimbo restaurant, which specializes in Uruguayan cuisine. Well, we'd already had a taste of Guatemalan food.

MON 03.11.25

Today we enjoy another hearty Guatemalan breakfast. Our goal is to climb Rostro Maya, a rocky nose that's usually climbed early in the morning to watch the sunrise. We obviously missed that opportunity. We walk to the dock, buy tickets, get aboard and after a short while, the boat departs.

We make numerous stops along the coastline, which drops steeply into the lake. There are many settlements clinging to the hillside. After about an hour we reach San Juan la Laguna.
The touristy pedestrian street is draped with colorful umbrellas. We visit the church and then set off for Rostro Maya. At the foot of the mountain, we pay a modest entrance fee. A well-maintained path leads to a viewpoint. We continue along a densely overgrown trail. Where there have been many people before, there is now nobody around. After half an hour, we stop at a coffee plantation. Nobody but us, and the path is overgrown. Our gut feeling tells us to turn back. Back in San Juan, we take a tuk-tuk to San Pedro la Laguna.

This town is also very touristy. We stop for a break at one of the many bars and enjoy cappuccino and pastries on a terrace high above the lake. The return trip is rough. Some passengers get completely soaked by the waves. Back in Panajachel, we enjoy the sunset at a restaurant by the lake. The atmosphere is fantastic despite the clouds. The majestic volcanoes San Pedro, Toliman, and Atitlan rise on the other side of the lake.
We have dinner at Guajimbo again tonight, and we'll be back tomorrow as well. Following the motto, if it's good, we'll repeat.

TUE 04.11.25

Today we're visiting Santiago Atitlán. They say it's the most authentic and least touristy place on the famous lake. Let's see. The crossing to the other side of Lake Atitlán takes slightly more than half an hour at full engine power.
Arriving at the port, we head into the center. A lot of traffic, no colorful pedestrian walkways, so you can definitely say it's authentic.

We are arriving at the market square. A lively scene unfolds around the stalls. The market vendors as well as the shoppers are dressed in traditional fabrics. We're amazed. In the church square, children are flying kites. A popular pastime in Guatemala that also delights adults. Unfortunately, we missed the giant kite festival in Sumpango, where kites up to 25 meters in diameter were launched. We visit the church with its numerous statues of saints. Typical in Latin America, these are carved from wood, but dressed like dolls in fine fabrics and wearing wigs.

We then walk down to the lake, where women are washing clothes near Parque Xechivoy. We've noticed in other places that the lake is used for washing clothes. Not far from here is the cemetery with its colorful stone graves. On our way back, we encounter a funeral procession. A brass band leads the procession, playing the same funeral march as in Antigua. The mourners following the procession are dressed in traditional clothing.
Back in town (Santiago really is the size of a city), we look for a café and, after a long search, find a somewhat run-down place. We conclude: Santiago is truly authentic and not very touristy.
Arriving in Panajachel, we end the day with beer and a sunset over the lake. Pana (as locals call it) is our favorite spot on the lake, perhaps simply because we spent the most time there.

WED 05.11.25

It is 5 a.m. We're standing on Panajachel's main street with all our luggage, waiting for the shuttle bus. A car stops across the street. The driver remains inside. On this side of the road, another vehicle stops about a hundred meters ahead and shines its headlights on us. Right next to the car, a guy is sitting on some steps, gets up, and leaves. The crime rate in Guatemala is very high; We'd better not worry about it. We wait what feels like forever. Finally, the shuttle bus arrives, a quarter of an hour late. We're saved! The car with the headlights, by the way, was a police car.
Our journey takes us first to Guatemala City, and from there we'll continue by bus to Rio Dulce. We change vehicles before the turnoff to Antigua. Some passengers are getting off at the airport, so we head there first. We reach the city, and traffic is moving at a snail's pace. We initially wanted to take the 9 a.m. bus to Rio Dulce, but on the advice of the travel agent, we opted for the later one at 11:30.

We finally arrive at the bus terminal at 10 a.m. The agent tells us that the 11:30 bus doesn't exist. Well, we have tickets, electronic ones, but they seem to be valid. They're making us wait. After half an hour everything happens very quickly. We are told to board the bus immediately, which was already there when we arrived. As soon as we are on board, the journey continues. We haven't found out if it was the delayed 9:00 a.m. bus.
The 5-hour journey turns into a 7-hour one. There is heavy traffic on the highway heading northeast. Sometime after 7:00 p.m. we arrive in Rio Dulce.

We wait in a bar by the river. After a while, a guy arrives in a boat to pick us up. After a short ride, we reach the Hotel Casa Perico, hidden in the mangrove swamps. We are overwhelmed by the location. The owner greets us in Swiss German. We move into our room in a wooden house built on stilts. The bed is enclosed in mosquito nets. Fortunately, we're not plagued by any mosquitoes. Finally, we end the day relaxing with a beer or two in the lobby.

THU 06.11.25

Today we have booked an excursion to Livingston which is only reachable by boat. After breakfast and exploring the area by canoe, a young man picks us up in a boat. He introduces himself as the captain and tour guide. We set off in direction Rio Dulce.
In the middle of the river, we are slowed down by another boat. Armed, masked men order the engine to stop. A woman identifies herself as a river police officer. She explains the situation. Shortly afterward, we are boxed in from the other side by a military patrol.

It turns out that our captain is driving without a license. After a couple of phone calls and some small talk with the military officer, the owner of the ship arrives. He takes over our boat, while the young man, his son, has to go with the patrol to the police station. What an exciting start of the journey.
After a brief detour to the water castle Castillo de San Felipe de Lara, the trip continues towards the Atlantic. We make several side trips into small channels and pass stilt houses. Men are working on their structures, women are washing clothes, and children are playing and waving hands to us. Soon we navigate a narrow gorge and then reach the open sea. Livingston lies right at the mouth of the river.

The sleepy town, with its colorful houses and predominantly Black African population, who proudly call themselves Garifuna, exudes Caribbean flair. We criss cross through the town, walk to the beach and back. We enter Las Tres Garifunas restaurant. A band is playing. People are dancing. And we order tapado, their typical fish dish. Delicious.
We spend a full four hours in the Caribbean town before heading back. The boat trip from Livingston to Rio Dulce takes about an hour and a half without stops.

FRI 07.11.25

We are woken up by the house cat, just like yesterday morning. We first thought it was a bird calling, sounding so plaintive. But no, there are cats in the jungle too.
After breakfast, we say goodbye to the staff of the Hotel Casa Perico. Our journey continues to Flores. The shuttle bus ride takes three to four hours. Flores is located on an island connected to the mainland by a bridge. The colorful colonial town is like a living museum.

After booking our onward travel to Belize and tomorrow's tour to Tikal, we arrive at a pub on the western shore of the lake, just in time to enjoy a beer while watching the sunset over Lake Petén Itzá.
After dark, the town is bustling with activity. There are many tourists.
We are looking forward to visiting the famous Mayan site tomorrow.

SAT 08.11.25

There are three different tours to Tikal: the Sunrise Tour, the Sunset Tour, and one for those who don't want to pay extra. We've opted for the day tour and have to stay at 10:00 a.m. at the pick-up point.

Beforehand, we have a leisurely breakfast and take another look around the island town.
The drive to the park entrance takes about 1.5 hours. From the park entrance to the temples, it's still a few kilometers. The site lies in the heart of the rainforest.
The tour guide first shows us some giant trees. The Ceiba, known to the Maya as a sacred tree, reaches a height of 70 meters. Well-trodden paths lead to piles of stones overgrown with vegetation. Under each of these 10-20 meter high, tree-covered mounds lies a temple. Many of them are still unexcavated.
Howler monkeys make a deafening noise. They hang in the treetops. We can only see their shadows and the swaying branches.
We reach a park-like plaza with an exposed pyramid, a staircase leading upwards, and a rock garden. This is called Complex Q.

We continue on and come upon a massive, overgrown mountainside. An iron staircase leads up to the highest temple in the complex. It is Temple Number 4. We are above the jungle canopy. The temples of the Great Plaza rise from the greenery.
A little later we find ourselves in the center of Tikal. The Jaguar Temple stands majestically before us.
Coatis waddle across the meadow. Recently, a jaguar was said to have jumped into the middle of a crowd, snatched one of these animals, and disappeared back into the bush. Anything is possible; nature takes what it can get here. And that's good.
People are lost in this vast area. Despite its fame, the Mayan site remains a mystical place.

SUN 09.11.25

Today is another travel day. We're leaving Guatemala.
We booked a bus and boat trip via Belize City to Caye Caulker at a travel agency in Flores. Only later did we realize that we've booked with Fuente del Norte again, the not-so-reliable bus company.
We wait somewhat anxiously at the bus stop at 6:15 a.m. Some shuttles have already left. Our bus arrives a little late.
After about two hours, we reach the border with Belize.

We've been advised to exchange Guatemalan quetzales before crossing the border. There is no way to exchange money in Belize. The border crossing is quick and easy. After about half an hour, we are back on the road.
The roads in Belize are in slightly better condition, but otherwise, we don't notice much of a difference.
We arrive in Belize City and get off the bus at the port.

We get our ferry tickets and soon we are out at sea. The crossing to Caye Caulker takes an hour.
The islanders seem relaxed. The roads are unpaved, there are no cars, only caddies. The houses are colorful, Caribbean style.
It is Sunday. Many locals are out and about. Caribbean music is playing everywhere. Numerous bars are filled with partygoers. Lobsters are being grilled at open-air barbecue areas.
We explore the island. By chance, we come across a harpoon feeding station. The meter-long fish jump out of the water and grab the bait that the visitor is holding between his fingers.
We end the day with a Belikin beer or two.

MON 10.11.25

Should we go on a snorkeling tour or not? "If we haven't visited the famous Belize Reef, we haven't really seen Belize," the internet says.
First of all, we go for breakfast. The Fry Jacks at Errolyn's are delicious.

Raindrops are falling. We have the option of going on the snorkeling tour either in the morning or afternoon. The sky is overcast. The weather won't be any better in the afternoon.
The four of us go out to sea with the tour guide at around 10:30 a.m. We do three dives. The highlight is feeding the nurse sharks and stingrays. We also spot a sea turtle.
It starts raining on the way back. The tour was definitely worth it.

Before nightfall, we visit the bay where the stingrays are fed. Dozens of stingrays meet there. The visitors mingle with the rays in the shallow water. Two animators distribute buckets of fish. What a spectacle.
For dinner, we have grilled lobster.

TUE 11.11.25

We set off early in the morning. At the port, we are informed that our crossing to Chetumal has been canceled due to high seas. We rebook and take the next boat to Belize City and from there a shuttle to Bacalar. We are supposed to arrive in Bacalar at 5 p.m., about three hours later than planned.
At least the boats are running. It is really quite stormy. We arrive in the capital at 8 a.m.

We have a four-hour layover and time to explore the city. There isn't much to see. We walk to the lighthouse and back, across the canal to Battlefield Park.
Our shuttle arrives an hour and a half late. Around 5 p.m., we reach the border with Mexico. The exit formalities in Belize are taking forever. There are just over a dozen passengers on the bus. We are the first ones in the queue, but then have to wait a long time for the others.

So, with our exit stamps, we go back and exchange our Belize dollars for Mexican pesos. Finally all travellers are back on board.
Next we're at Mexican immigration. Since we're staying longer than seven days in Mexico, we have to pay entry fees. The procedure takes another half hour. Finally, the journey continues.
We reach Chetumal. Because of the significant delay, the travel agency invites us to a free beer. Then we have to change vehicles.
At 9 p.m., we finally arrive in Bacalar. Luckily, our hotel is right next to the Zocalo Park, where the shuttle stop is.
We end the day with tacos and Mexican beer.

WED 12.11.25

The Bacalar Lagoon is famous for its clear, turquoise water. We have planned to explore the lagoon by catamaran, but every Wednesday is cleaning day. This means there's a strict ban on all watercraft, including rowboats and paddleboats. Swimming is still allowed, though.
There are a few public access points to the lagoon. Guests of our hotel Asilé have free access at the Mayan Playa Bacalar Hotel, which is located just outside the center, right on the lagoon. Uber takes us there, and we spend a few hours relaxing in hammocks under a thatched roof on a jetty.

Swimming in the freshwater lagoon is a real treat. The water is pleasantly warm and shallow, with a soft layer of sand on the bottom.
We walk back along the lagoon and stop at another public bathing area. Bathers are lounging like lizards on a long wooden jetty or splashing around in the water.
Before sunset, people meet at the La Playita bar for beer or margaritas and guacamole.
We could easily spend a few more days in this enchanting place, but tomorrow we continue our journey.

THU 13.11.25

And so the journey continues. First, an Uber to the bus station, and then a bus ride with ADO via Tulum to Valladolid. The trip takes about four hours.
Our hotel is right next to Parque Principal. We're pleasantly surprised by Valladolid. It's quite lively in the evenings. We stumble upon Calzada de Los Frailes by chance, a bustling street with numerous bars and restaurants.

Late in the evening, a light show is projected onto the facade of the Church of San Servacio. It's supposed to depict the story of Chichen Itza. We're looking forward to visiting one of the Seven Wonders of the World tomorrow.

FRI 14.11.25

The first minibuses to Chichen Itza leave at 7:00 AM. We arrive a little later but manage to get on the next bus.
Chichen Itza opens at 8:00 AM, and we're there right away. The enormous pyramid, or rather the Kukulcan Temple, stands on a grassy area. The other temples are somewhat hidden in the jungle. All of them have been excavated. The snake sculptures are impressive, and the facade of the nunnery is also striking.

As the morning progresses, the site fills with more and more visitors.
In the early afternoon, we leave this historically significant place and visit Xenote Ik Kil. In the middle of the landscape, a huge hole opens up, about 50 meters in diameter and about 30 meters deep. At the bottom is a crystal-clear freshwater lake.

There are numerous xenotes in this area.
We pay the entrance fee and are given life jackets. A staircase leads down into the depths. We float in the cool water with many other visitors.
Back in Valladolid, we end the day with a visit to the San Bernardino Monastery. The monastery was built at the beginning of the colonial period.
We have dinner at Calzada de Los Frailes, just like the day before, and enjoy Mayan specialties accompanied by Chaya-Piña-Limon, a refreshing non-alcoholic drink. Chaya is a spinach-like green plant used primarily in Mayan cuisine.

SAT 15.11.25

We continue our journey and reach our final destination, Cancún.

The ADO bus ride from Valladolid to Cancún takes about two hours. We then take an Uber to the all-inclusive resort Grand Palladium on Costa Mujeres.

SAT 15.11.25 - THU 20.11.25

As wedding guests, we spend the last five days at the resort. The fine sandy beach stretches for miles and miles. The hotels are hidden in the bushland. Near the beach there are a few meager palm trees. Iguanas hide under the wooden boardwalks.

The resort consists of several apartment blocks, a large dining hall, several restaurants, bars, and cafes. There is also a large pool area. An artificial canal runs along the entire perimeter. Weddings are celebrated every evening.

Our flight back to Zurich with Air Europa via Madrid is uneventful.

FRI 21.11.24

Arrival at Zurich